I just ordered a second pair. Pull the lining layer back out so the wrong sides are exposed. Press the seam allowance toward the lining the side that does not have the powernet. Here is another personal preference thing. It prevents the waistband from rolling but is softer than other knit elastics. Experiment and see what you prefer.
Take your elastic and, starting just off the side seam seam allowance, lay it on top of the seam allowance that goes around the top of the waistband.
The elastic should not cross the stitching line where the lining and main are attached. Knit waistbands on tights already have negative ease and pulling or stretching elastic when attaching it here will result in an uncomfortable waistband. I learned this with a few uncomfortable waistbands and have since removed and replaced them. Another way to reducereuserecycle. When you get back around to where you started, stop just before the elastic overlaps with the needle down.
Raise the presser foot and cut the elastic close to the beginning edge of elastic. Continue stitching to the elastic end, and beyond an inch or so. I like to backstitch across the beginning and end of the elastic a couple times to make sure its nice and secure.
Keep an eye on those side seams. They will lay nice and flat if you keep them going in opposite directions. I like to clip around the bottom edge and zigzag to keep all three layers together nicely. This helps immensely when attaching to the body of the leggings or tights. Again, I use my Purple Thang to help keep the fabrics from shifting. In addition, that elastic layer is towards your body, with the powernet or techsheen layered on top.
This is the magical layering technique which gives an even smoother appearance on the exterior of the garment. Now your waistband is neat and tidy and ready to attach to the leggings pattern of your choice. I compared a few of my favorites in this blog post but I really need to revisit with the rest of my patterns that have more of an athletic fit than most of the patterns in my first comparison.
I made this particular pair using the Jalie Clara pattern, but modified the waistband. As I do. I just realized I did the exact same pattern combination in this pair, using premium athletic from Surge Fabric Shop. I used the same technique, but a different contour waistband on these tights, using Apostrophe MyFit Leggings with Greenstyle Inspire Tights accent pieces. I really hope you love this tutorial and I hope that it helps you achieve the fit you desire for the waistbands on your leggings or athletic tights.
It is also important to note that the fit of your leggings is important. If your calf muscles are larger than the pattern was drafted for, the tights will be pulled down as the fabric seeks less resistance. If you enjoyed this tutorial or found it helpful, show me some love! You can follow me on Instagram here , or Facebook here. You can follow this blog here to get new content delivered to your inbox. This post containes a few Amazon affiliate links.
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It is a good idea to add the opening for the drawstring prior to stitching the casing in place. The openings can be stitched on the outside or inside of the garment, depending on what the pattern guide calls for. A drawstring can be made from several different types of products, such as cording, ribbon, or fabric. Just remember that the drawstring must be a material that will hold the garment in place and wear well.
Belt loops can be attached after completing the waistband Figure Cut a strip of fabric four times the desired width. Press the strip, folding it in half, then press it again, folding each raw edge to the crease line.
Stitch close to the folded edge on each side. Topstitch the belt loops to the waistband. Be sure to use a larger machine needle for topstitching. Sewing and Craft Alliance. Easy Waistband Casings—Elastic and Drawstrings [ Monroe, PA: Author. To find more resources for your business, home, or family, visit the College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences on the World Wide Web at aces.
Contents of publications may be freely reproduced for educational purposes. All other rights reserved. For permission to use publications for other purposes, contact pubs nmsu. NMSU and the U. Department of Agriculture cooperating. Decorative Elastic —May be used as a finish in place of a waistband. Standards Regardless of the type of waistband you use, a good waistband will be constructed to meet the following standards: The waistband is smooth and free from bulk, and is even and wrinkle-free.
The width is even or consistent according to the garment style. The waistband is on-grain and reinforced with interfacing to maintain shape.
The overlap is even with the placket at the opening. The underlap is under the band at the opening. The corners are on the ends of the band square. The skirt or pant has been eased onto the band. The waistband is securely stitched. The fasteners are properly located and secured. Depending on the desired look and the fabric, use one of the following as a suggestion: Fusible interfacing Nonwoven or woven interfacing Pre-cut interfacing or stiffening Grosgrain ribbon Self-fabric Waistbanding Belting Fusible interfacing, nonwoven or woven interfacing, and pre-cut interfacing or stiffening work well for regular and contour waistbands.
Figure 2. Applying fusible interfacing with an iron. Fitting It is important that a waistband be cut to fit you. Figure 3. Measuring for waistband fit. Construction Before you cut out the waistband, answer these questions: What finished width do I want the waistband to be? What is my waist measurement? How much ease do I want to allow? How much extension do I want on the underlap? For this fabric and design, which grain is best: lengthwise or crosswise? Can I cut the waistband on a selvage to reduce bulk?
Do I need to match a plaid or stripe? If yes, where should the centers be? Will I need to add side seams to match both back and front? Because of nap or one-way design, do I need to lay the waistband pattern to the "top" in the same direction as other pieces? Before cutting, decide on the waistband length based on your waist measurement , desired ease, an underlap extension of at least 1 inch, and width.
Be sure to include seam allowances on all edges. The width of the waistband is determined by preference, the method of interfacing, and the method of finishing: The typical width measurement is twice the desired width plus two seam allowances Figure 4. Figure 4. Typical width measurement for a waistband. The overlap is flush with the placket. The placket can be found on the left side, left back, center front, or center back depending on garment design.
The underlap should be at least 1 inch. The conclusion of this experiment is that some control of the waist is necessary. Since these are freshly sewn, so the stitches are nice and tight. The likelihood is that the waist will continue to expand when you wear them due to the heat and moisture of your body.
Hi Kennis, I have enjoyed the results of all your patterns. I especially love the vest one with all the grommets. I got to use my heavy duty grommet punch and it fits beautifully. Hi Wendy, thank you for your kind words and for your interest!
The Samara Pants have a straight waistband. Have a great day! You can put the front and back contour waistbands together at the side seam and cut the entire piece that way. I read the post , I always face gappy waist bands with the skirts I make. Can you please tell me how the waist band became more in length when you sewed them up , did they stretch while sewing? You are right! I forgot to address the why! The short answer is yes, the waistbands stretch while sewing.
But let me address this in my next post when I talk about the solution. Thank you for putting this article together. Seeing the samples and results is so helpful. I have a gored denim skirt that I faced directly at the waistline no waistband and it is quite a bit larger than I expected. Now I understand why. Name Required. Email Required. Exact matches only. Search in title.
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