The cassette joint fixing ring is installed so the yellow dots line up. Turn it clockwise to lock it. The motor unit for a hub with electrical shifting is installed with both the hub and the motor unit in first-gear position. Dots at the right end of the hub should be aligned as shown. Shimano has a special tool to align them, but this can also be achieved with careful clockwise rotation of the two notches in the ring shown in gray, using an adjustable pin spanner.
The tabs in the motor unit should be aligned as shown in the next picture. If they are not, use the electrical shifter to shift the motor unit to first-gear position. There should be a rubber sealing ring just inside the indentation in the inner face of the motor unit. Install it if necessary. The smaller-diameter side faces inward. The motor unit can install either of two ways. Either way is OK: you will rotate the axle when installing the wheel so the electrical connection faces forward.
Place the motor unit over the end of the axle so that marks on it line up with marks on a spacer inboard of locknut B, as shown in the image below. Rotate the motor unit clockwise to engage it with the axle assembly, and install locknut B, which secures the motor unit. The legend for the drawing in the manual reads:.
Installation of this hub is already complicated enough! The labels are corrected in the image below. Adjustment is made with the shifter in 4th gear for the 4, 7- and 8-speed hubs, 6th gear for the speed hub. On the right side of the hub, just outboard of the sprocket, there is the "cassette joint pulley" which the cable turns as the gears are changed. Next to this is the "cassette joint bracket" which is stationary. Both the pulley and the bracket have index marks, and gear adjustment is correct when the marks on the two parts align with the shifter in 4th gear 6th gear on the speed.
There are two sets of these marks, one on top, the other on the bottom. This lets you see one set of marks whether the bike is right-side up or upside down. This procedure is the same for the Nexus 4-, 7- and 8-speed hubs, using 4th gear as the reference. In the case of the 8-speed, however, the marks you need to line up are yellow, not red.
Internal-gear hubs always require some system to prevent the axle from rotating, as it is used as part of the gear train. As with most other internal gear systems, Shimano uses tab washers that engage the dropout slots to keep the axle from turning.
File only the lower edge of the dropout slots, to avoid disturbing wheel alignment. You may check your work using an anti-rotation washer: if the tab of the washer fits, the axle will fit. Except with vertical dropouts, the tab should preferably face the closed end of the dropout slot, for better engagement. Because the shift cable linkage "cassette joint unit" in Shimano-speak is also keyed to the axle, there are different types of anti-rotation washers to fit different dropout angles.
You need to select washers for your particular frame. Earlier Nexus hubs only used an anti-rotation washer on the right side, but newer models use a pair of them, each a mirror image of the other.
The 5R and 7L are nearly identical, as are the 5L and 7R, and so these pairs may be interchanged by switching sides. The 6R and 6L also may be used on the "wrong" sides of the hub for the best cable alignment with some bicycles. The 8L and 8R may be useful with forward-facing dropouts if you would like to run the cable up a seatstay. There is another anti-rotation washer chart archived from the Shimano site, and it may be easier to read.
The Nexus hubs were not originally intended for use with bikes that have vertical dropouts. The anti-rotation washers provided with the hub have the wrong orientation for use with vertical dropouts, and originally, Shimano said that these hubs could not be used with vertical dropouts.
Shimano has reconsidered, however, and now makes available an optional set of anti-rotation washers that work with vertical dropouts.
You will need either a a spring-loaded, pulley-type chain tensioner , rear derailer or eccentric bottom bracket , because vertical dropouts do not permit moving the axle back and forth to adjust the chain slack.
Note, only the eccentric bottom bracket, not the chain tensioner or rear derailer, will work with the coaster brake version of the Nexus hub, because backpedaling places the lower run of the chain under high tension.
Also see our article about derailerless drivetrains. I have a very nice 's Raleigh Competition racing frame which I converted into a Nexus 7-speed:. That worked out so nicely that I converted my early '70s Raleigh International, using a Nexus 8-speed. I like the Nexus 8-speed a lot better than the 7-speed version. Ideally, the frame should have a drop-out spacing of to mm to fit one of the Nexus hubs.
Older bicycles are typically narrower than that. In the case of steel Cromoly frames, it is usually possible to spread the rear triangle to the needed width. Any good bicycle mechanic will be able to do this, or you can do it yourself.
This is what I did on my Nexus bike. The brake unit would get in the way of fitting the spokes through the hub flange, so it has to be installed after the wheel has been built. The Alfine speed is oil-lubricated, but the other Nexus and Alfine hubs are packed with a special grease as sold.
Mechanical problems can result from "preventive maintenance" including re-lubrication with incorrect grease. This is especially the case if a hub has a coaster brake, due to the heat this brake generates. Metal wear particles contaminate the grease, and so the hubs require periodic cleaning and replenishment of a special grease that does not make the pawls stick.
The hub must be disassembled into its major components, solvent cleaned, dried and re-lubricated. The unused gear is the direct drive gear. Instead, a gear that gives almost the same ratio is used, despite its using three gear trains and presumably being less efficient. The image below is of a cutaway of the hub as seen from the rear or top of the bicycle, so the sprocket is on the right in this view, and the gearing stages are in the order in which power is transmitted, from right to left.
The four roller clutches, RC1 through RC4 from right to left, are easier to see in the cutaway view below. The first-stage sun pinion the helical-cut one, at the right is permanently locked to the axle.
The remaining three suns 2 and 3 in the hub's second stage; and sun 4 in the third stage are selectively locked by pawls that pop out of the axle, as with the Nexus and Alfine 8-speed and the latest Nexus 7-speed hubs. The first stage is similar to that found in an Alfine or Nexus 8-speed hub, in that it uses a sliding clutch to provide direct drive to the planet cage.
The clutch is actuated by an axial cam and is locked in gears When the the clutch isn't locked, a roller clutch RC1 takes drive from the driver to ring gear 1 RG1 instead, driving the planet cage by way of the planet gears, for a speed reduction in gears The reduction gear ratio is 0. Drive next passes from the the planet cage of the first stage to the planet cage of the second stage -- they are locked together.
The second stage has stepped planet pinions, a single ring gear and two sun gears suns 2 and 3 , giving the increase ratios 1. When neither sun pinion is locked, roller clutch 2 RC2 transfers drive directly from the planet cage to the ring gear RG2 , so they turn at the same speed. The ring gear of the second stage is one piece with the planet cage PC3 of the final two-speed gear stage.
When its sun gear is locked, its ring gear drives the hub shell via roller clutch RC4, for an increase ratio of 1. When the sun gear is not locked, the second stage drives the hub shell directly via roller clutch RC3.
Except that they use reduction in the first stage, gears are achieved in the same way as gears Once you know what it is that you are looking at, you can see nearly all the relevant parts in the sectional views above. Where parts in two stages are effectively one piece, both of their names are shown in a single table cell. For example, "PC1 PC2" identifies planet cages 1 and 2, which are locked together and always turn at the same speed. Multiplying the ratios of all of the active stages together produces the final ratio.
For example, the overall ratio is 0. Only the first and second stages are active in 4th gear, and 0. The table shows only ratios, not gear tooth counts. Bruce calculated them and the anonymous"jb" in the Cycle Touring Club U. There are some measurements in a thread on the CTC forum but in essence all shifts are a nominal 5. The cable-operated mechanism requires careful adjustment see comments by Aaron Goss, below. The cable approaches the pulley at the top with all cable-operated Alfine speed hubs.
Shimano sells only a dual-paddle shifter for flat bars for the Alfine speed. JTek makes a bar-end shifter, probably the most reliable option for drop bars. Versa used to make brake-lever shifters but these had serious reliability problems.
Microshift brake-lever shifters are similar to Versa but have a better reputation. The hub is also available with with electrical "Di2" shifting. Electrical shifting offers a number of interesting features including a display screen, but it is more expensive and complicated.
The dual-button shifter works with any type of handlebar, and Shimano also makes a drop-bar brake lever with an electrical shifter. Electrically-shifted hubs have a blue line around the hub shell. The hub and motor unit should be in first-gear position before installation. Reliability problems have been reported, generally requiring replacement of parts rather than only adjustment. See more detailed comments below. Some owners ask about converting from one kind of shifting to the other. The conventional hub has a return spring in the shift control mechanism that tensions the cable and drives upshifts.
The Di2 version does not have the same spring; the shift is motor-driven in both directions. Conversion therefore requires replacing the axle assembly and so, disassembly of the internal mechanism. Replacing the entire internal mechanism is simpler. As with other internal-gear hubs, the cyclist should release force on the pedals when shifting. Some shifts occur only when internal parts of the hub are no longer held in place, transmitting power.
If pedaling continues during some shifts, parts may engage partially, risking damage. Unlike most of today's internal-gear hubs, the Alfine speed hub is oil-lubricated, and has an oil port. Shimano offers a recommended oil-change schedule and oil-change kit. Oil lubrication is desirable for an internal-gear hub, if the oil is replenished and changed regularly.
However, it is possible to lubricate the Alfine 11 better than Shimano suggests. As "jb" points out in the CTC forum see link below , the standard oil-change procedure does not thoroughly clean wear particles out of the hub. Partial disassembly of the internal mechanism allows a thorough cleaning and wear inspection.
Following this, spot lubrication of internal moving parts is advisable so they are ready to go with the first pedal stroke: oil injected from outside can take a while to reach them. Lubrication of ball bearings with waterproof grease is also desirable. Finally, the hub is reassembled and oil is injected through the port. The large right-side bearing seal of the Alfine speed hub often leaks. Some hubs have been almost completely dry when opened up for inspection.
Changes in temperature and atmospheric pressure can pump oil out of the hub. Storing the bicycle under shelter, but where temperature is near that outdoors, can reduce leakage. Adding oil between oil changes will keep a leaky hub lubricated. Leaking oil can be messy, and if it runs down the spokes, it can make a rim brake squeal and grab.
Aaron Goss recommends laying the bicycle on its right side with a rag under the hub for storage or transport, to catch leakage. Shimano oil is expensive. The left outer cone nut was removed completely, the sides of the right outer cone nut were ground down to make it flat enough to fit through the frame. The cone nuts are part 25 in the internals schematic. The modified cone nut is ground down on the sides so that it is narrow enough to fit through the frame fork end.
The flat sides of the axle were extended to go further towards the middle of the axle. A custom made two pronged washer is added to the outside of the fork on the left side, this replaces the original non-turn washer. Another nut is added before the original dome nuts at the axle ends. Specialized Langster track bicycle with Alfine 11 hub fitted. Left side of hub with custom washers on the outside of the fork end.
Both sides of the axle and modified hub. Compatible Mechanical Shifters When introduced there was only a trigger shifter, since then several other options have become available, but options remain limited. For a shifter to work with the Alfine Inter 11 it needs to be indexed with 11 steps.
The amount of cable pull varies slightly per gear. A shifter needs to be specifically designed for this hub to work. A non-indexed friction shifter is not recommended as you need a very specific amount of cable pull in order not to damage the gear selection pawls inside the hub.
Video of cable pull with SL-S shifter. It has two levers. The thumb lever shifts down, the index finger shifter shifts up. It has a few nifty tricks. You can push the top trigger in both directions to shift up, which means you can also use your thumb and keep your finger on the brake lever. Another nifty feature is that you can double shift by pushing the trigger further after the first click, it will click again and you will shift two gears.
It will fit on a handlebar with an outer diameter of The grip around the handle bar should not have an outer diameter greater than 34 mm. The inner cable is 1. Personally I like the trigger shifter a lot more than I initially thought I would. It works very quickly and is easier than a twist shifter as it only requires the flick of a finger, as opposed to moving your whole hand. Third Party Mechanical Shifters Since Shimano only has the trigger shifter as mechanical version of the hub, various manufacturers have started to produce compatible shifters that fit better on different types of handlebars.
The shifter has an integrated brake lever. I have seen mixed reports about it's quality. Genesis used this shifter on their Day One bicycle. On reader who owned thsi bicycle wrote that the Versa shifter failed after three years, the replacements failed again several months later.
This product has been discontinued in Review with pictures of Alfine 11 hub used with Versa Road Shifter Versa 11 speed shifter for drop bars. It is sold in a set with a matching left side brake lever. It looks a lot like the discontinued Versa Road Shifter.
The reason is that these are essentially the same product. Microshift manufactured most of the shifter for Versa. When Versa discontinued the product Microshift started selling the complete shifter themselves. Unfortunately Versa stopped the supplying of this product in last year, but we decided to keep on this version after some talk with customers. The main mechanism is the same, we just have a minor change in some details.
There are various versions, one of them is compatible with Shimano's 11 speed hub. Jtek Thumb Shifter The Jtek thumb shifter is not really a separate shifter, it is the same bar end shifter as mentioned above, but with an additional mount adapter that allows you to clamp it around a It is sometimes sold as a kit with the shifter. Note: It is a bad idea to use non indexed friction shifters, when the amount of cable being pulled is not within the acceptable tolerance, it can damage the hub.
There are various third party adapters for using rotors with 6 bolts ISO. Installing a disc rotor requires a special tool. It is possible to use any disc brake caliper that fits the frame and rotor.
This means that you don't need to stick with Shimano. It is possible to use mechanical and hydraulic disc brake calipers and levers from any manufacturer; Avid, Hope, Magura, Tektro, TRP, etc. Unlike the Shimano Nexus hubs there are no versions of the Shimano Alfine Inter 11 with coaster or roller brakes.
Centerlock adapter set made by Problem Solvers. Belt Drive Compatibility Like most other internal gear hubs the Shimano Alfine Inter 11 can be made to work with belt drive systems that replace the chain with a belt. The Gates Carbon belt drive is the most popular option at the moment.
This requires a frame where the right seat stay can be opened up to install the belt. It is sometimes possible to have a frame builder convert a frame. Video on installing a Gates Carbon Belt drive on Shimano Alfine Inter 11 with Di2 electronic shifting Compatible Wheels The hub comes with either 32 or 36 spoke holes and can be laced into any rim with the same amount of spoke holes. At this moment Loop Wheel does no longer appear to offer a wheel with the Alfine Inter 11 hub.
Loopwheel website 20" Loop Wheel with Alfine Inter 11 hub. Compatible Chains The chain that can be used depends on the sprocket. There is no Alfine branded chain. The Shimano Alfine sprockets work with single speed bicycle chains. The Alfine, Nexus, and most other modern sprockets are of the narrow type. It is also possible to use 7, 8 and 9 speed chains. So basically, any bicycle chain will work, as long as it is not a 10 or 11 speed chain for derailers. So what is the best chain for the Alfine 11?
Shimano suggests a 7 or 9 speed chain, but that is because they don't offer anything else. Sram makes some pretty affordable chains which are generally preferred because they come with a master link for easy connecting, unlike Shimano.
KMC has some chains especially for high-end internal gear systems, which are quite a bit more expensive, but does not explain what justifies the price. So what to choose? As long as you are buying from one of these brands you are getting a quality chain. A master link is nice to have. Anti rust coating or nickel plating helps if you ride in wet conditions. You may even be able to save a few grams with a light weight chain.
Beyond that, just go for the best price and best looks. Environment Low temperatures As far as I can tell Shimano does not specify an operating temperature for the Alfine Inter 11 hub. Temperature has the biggest effect on the lubrication oil inside the hub. I was unable to find any reports of oil inside the hub becoming less viscous or freezing in such a way that it becomes a problem.
One user writes the following : I've used an Alfine this winter in temps from to deg C for 45 - 90 mins at a time with the bike indoors in between rides.
So far I haven't had an issues at all. The Alfine 11 is different from the Alfine 8 in this regard. The 8 speed hub uses thicker grease as lubricant which on which low temperatures have a stronger effect. Those worried about oil in colder conditions can opt to replace the standard oil with something thinner at their own risk.
It is likely that the same method can be applied to the Shimano Inter 11 hub. Reports of the hub being unable to shift in freezing conditions are caused by moisture in the shifting cable, or at the cassette joint where the cable exits.
This can occur with any cable based shifting system. Th e solution is to lube the shifting cable with a lube that does not freeze as easily as water usually a thin oil inside the cables, and something thicker around the joint. Preventing moisture from getting in the cable by storing the bicycle in a dry place helps.
Using the Di2 variant with electronic shifting will also not have this problem, but the batteries can also be negatively affected by extreme cold. There are too many manufacturers to list here who offer bicycles with the hub and shifter installed.
If you have a bicycle or frame and have verified it is compatible you can build, your own wheel, or have a wheel built for you with the hub in it, and install in in your bicycle. You can do this yourself, or any bike shop who employees a competent wheel builder. You will probably not find the Alfine 11, or any internal gear hub on the shelves of your local bike store.
Maybe they can order it for you, but you can also buy it online yourself. Some large online shops that sell bicycle components will have it, but also Amazon. Make sure you get the right version. Prices can vary per version. If you don't mind the color or are flexible about the amount of holes you can find better deals.
Also check what accessories are included. Often it comes with a shifter. You will also need at least a sprocket and small parts kit. Don't forget the oil and an oil change kit that you will need pretty soon afterwards. Model no. It's best to installation guide PDF carefully. This will give you a batter idea of the required parts and tools. Additional parts required The hub can be sold bare, with shifter, or as a complete set. To convert a whole bicycle you will need the following parts, in addition the hub:.
The small parts kit includes a green and blue non turn washer which are meant for frames with vertical dropouts. If you have different dropouts you need to purchase the washers separately. If you have vertical dropouts you also need to have some kind of chain tensioning system.
Chainline With an internal gear hub you ideally want the chain to go straight to the crank. You can tweak the chainline by using dished sprockets that will move the chain either in and out. At the bottom bracket you can add spacers to move the chainring left and right. You can also use the Shimano Alfine crankset to get the correct chainline without having to make any tweaks. The spacer is placed between the rotor and the lock ring. This part can sometimes lead to some confusion, it may not be included when you buy the hub.
The rotor spacer has part number Y37R and can be bought separately. If you want to use 6-bolt disc rotor you need to install an adapter. There are many different adapters sold by different manufacturers. The bolts are relatively close to the Centerlock interface.
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